Charlie had already written about the change in hats after he left Hobart. But his move to Oxford meant a lot more change than just hats. For Oxford, he had to get the proper clothes for a freshman, including a commoner’s gown, new suits, plus outfits for tennis, lacrosse, track, and perhaps baseball, and dress clothes for the post-game dinners.
Below are excerpts from his letters about clothes, shoes, and grooming, starting with essential purchases from his first week there.
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Ordered a dress suit the other day. Have to give $30. About forty five in U.S. and will not be made nearly so well either. However I got a derby for seven bob or shillings that would cost about $3 at home. [10/15/05]
I ordered a winter suit of clothes tonight. This is not such a great country after all to buy clothes in. Everything is tailor made … they fit very poorly as a rule. Use fine cloth tho. I’m getting what is called a Norfolk suit. Heavy, rough cloth with felt on back of coat. Costs £3 rest extra. [10/19/05]
The drawing shows a Norfolk suit from 1906. They were of sturdy tweed, designed for shooting, golf, and other outdoor use. Charlie’s could have had knickers instead of slacks.
They all wear fancy vests here and the sportiest colors one can imagine. In fact, their shirts, ties, vests, and socks remind one of an Indian camp. [10/19/05]
One custom that is rather queer here is that undergraduates do not carry umbrellas. In fact except when it is raining, except Sunday, one seldom if ever wears a hat. Hat means cap except derbies which are only worn on Sunday. No slouch hats are seen at all. On Sunday everyone carries a stick and wears gloves too. [10/30/05]
Some clothing was required by the Oxford rules. Freshman, for example, as University “commoners,” had to often wear a gown (pictured).
The times we have to wear gowns etc is when at lectures, chapel, calling on tutors or any college official on business, dinner, Uni. church, and any time on the street after 9 P.M.
Penalty for last is 5 shillings but hardly anyone does it. Takes the risk of having the proctor see him and it does not seem to be a very big risk. They catch a few most every day but 2 proctors to 3000 undergrads is rather big odds. [about Dec 4, 1905]
I broke my record on a cheap haircut yesterday. Got the operation performed for 4 pence. Think of that: 8 cents. That’s not the record either—just mine, Ensign got one for 3 pence in a shop not quite so nice. The work in all such lines is very poor tho. The shop where I was does a ladies and gents business and has all sorts of pins [?] and curling irons in sight. They do almost no shaving, so little in fact that even in Oxford I haven’t seen a shop with more than 1 shaving chair and here [in New Quay, Cornwall where he stayed between terms] there’s none. [01/14/06]
Another thing in the same line especially for Bart’s benefit. Over here and I noticed the same thing all the time to a more limited extent is the U.S. After I got away from K.C. nobody ever has his neck shaved, clipped only. I haven’t had a neck shave since I left Olathe. Wish I never had had one now. Think I shall have to invest in a pair of shoes in London. Boots they say here. [American shoe makers] Regal and Walkover both have a store there and English shoes are execrable. [01/14/06]
Went to the Walkover store and got some shoes and then bought some gloves etc. English shoes are horrible. Almost no American wears them, but can also buy Regals in Cheapside. [01/21/06]
I just got myself measured for a summer coat and trousers. You have everything tailor-made here — can’t get anything else — and then the fit and style of the ordinary suit is not as good as a ready made at home. It is a very good price of goods I think and costs £3. [05/06/06]
